Rhum Agricole

Last night my friends and I had the great pleasure of attending a special dinner to showcase Rhum Clement and Rhum J.M. Both are brands of rhum agricole, a type of rum distilled from freshly-squeezed sugar cane juice rather than from molasses like most rums. Only recently have these brands jumped through all the necessary hoops to find their way onto the shelves of Washington liquor stores, and on this night we were lucky enough to have them shaken up for us by some of Seattle's top mixologists then paired with five incredible courses made by the chefs at Spur Gastropub.

Pairing cocktails with food works surprisingly well. As with wines, cocktails can span every flavor profile from sweet to acidic, from earthy to mineral, from smoky to herbaceous to floral. The key difference between the two is that, when making a cocktail, a bartender has the opportunity to take a variety of different flavors and mix them together at different ratios on the spot. While I won't argue that nothing is more awe-inspiring than a flawless wine and food pairing, there is something impressive about a mixologist who's skilled and knowledgeable enough to blend the perfect libation to go with an already perfect dish. This was my experience last night:

First

Tuna Tartare

wrapped in avocado with chili and lime "chips".

Saint Pierre

Clément Primier Canne, ginger, champagne vinegar, lime bitters.

by Cale Green

Throughout the dinner we were brought our cocktails first, followed by the food. This course was my favorite pairing because, at first sip, this cocktail came across as a little too sharp and acidic. Once I was able to try it with the food, however, I found it to be balanced as the ginger and vinegar elements in the cocktail helped to cut through the rich flavors of avocado and raw tuna.

Second

Sous Vide Pork Belly

with cabbage, pineapple, and creole mustard.

Carley’s Conundrum

Rhum J.M Gold, lemon, orgeat, demerara, boker’s bitters.

by Nathan Webber

Both of these would be just as good on their own as they were together. The complex and sweet flavors of the orgeat (an almond and infused syrup flavored with rose or orange flower water) and the demerara (a golden raw sugar) in the cocktail mirrored those of the soft pork belly and cooked pineapple on our plates.

Third

Smoked King Crab

on braised greens with butternut squash soup and pecans.

Calypso King

Brown Butter infused Rhum J.M Silver, falernum.

by Craig Schoen

As the bartender was describing his cocktail to us he proposed something I’d never heard of before: we were to dip or smoked king crab into the cocktail. Equally fun and delicious, the browned butter flavors infused into the rhum paired expectedly well with the crab, and the bite of alcohol in the finish served to cleanse the palate. 

Fourth

Beef Cheeks

with raw, braised, and pureed carrots, curry demi-glace, and horseradish foam.

Chimenea

Clement VSOP, rye, cynar, punt e mes, hickory syrup, orange bitters.

by Marley Tomic-Beard

This cocktail seemed to get mixed reviews from those sitting around me, but all agreed that it was much better with the food than on its own. The strong notes of hickory smoke and cynar (a bitter apéritif flavored with artichoke) were too much to handle alone, but the beef cheek sauced with curry demi-glace did much to help these potent flavors find there place.

Fifth

Rhum Walnut Sponge Cake

topped with a dehydrated banana-juice chip, paired with praline ice cream and banana panna cotta drizzled with caramel. 

Rhum Clément Cuvée Homère and Clément X. O.

For our final course we were given two blended barrel-aged rhums, served neat. The first, Cuvée Homère, was a marriage of the brand’s best rhums over the last fifteen years: 2001, 1999, and 1997. The second was a rare blend of very old aged rhums including the highly regarded vintages of 1976, 1970, and 1952. It was a great opportunity for all to see the incredible range of character that rhum agricole can have. After all, wasn’t that the point of the entire meal?

A Quiet Night

When I was growing up every holiday was an event, and Halloween was no exception. My siblings and I would decorate the entire house, carve pumpkins, toast pumpkin seeds, help each other build our costumes, go trick-or-treating, and eventually get sick from eating ridiculous amounts of candy. As I moved into high school and my siblings moved away to live on their own, Halloween morphed into a time to go out with friends, get dressed up, cut loose, cause trouble, and still eventually get sick from eating ridiculous amounts of candy. College wasn’t really much different, except that the “trouble” got more interesting, the parties lasted longer, and the costumes generally got sluttier. 
Which brings us to now. The crazy parties have gone away, and I'm no longer excited by the idea of eating my weight in miniature candy bars. In fact, now that I've got a real life with a real job and a real girlfriend and real rent to pay I can barely be bothered to dress up for the occasion. My concept of "fun" has changed such that now all I really want is a nice relaxing evening at home carving pumpkins and making dinner with my lady.

Herb-brined Chicken, Roasted with Apples and Onions

This is a terrific dish to serve when the weather turns cold and you start craving comfort food. I've brined many a chicken in while working in restaurants, but it's not something I often think of doing at home. The process is deceivingly quick, as long as you make the brine and get your chicken into it the night before (or even that same morning), your actual working time is less than 30 minutes all together. The end result will be the juiciest, most flavorful chicken you've tasted.

Brine

• 1/2 gal water
• 1/2 cup Kosher Salt
• 1/4 cup Sugar
• 1 bunch Fresh Thyme
• 3 sprigs Fresh Rosemary
• 1 Bay Leaf
• 1 head Garlic, cut in half horizontally
• 1 small Onion, sliced
• 2 T Pink Peppercorns
• 1 ea Lemon, halved
• 6 ea Chicken Drumsticks

Roasted Chicken

• Salt and pepper to taste
• 2 Tbsp Butter, salted
• 1 Tbsp Vegetable Oil
• 1 small Yellow Onion, diced
• 1 Apple, Granny Smith or other firm apple
• 1 bunch Fresh Thyme
• 1 ea Lemon, quartered

Combine all ingredients for the brine except the chicken in a sauce pan on high heat and bring to a boil. Stir to dissolve the salt and sugar, then remove from heat. Refrigerate until cool and then add the chicken. Let sit at least 8 hours, or preferably over night. Remove chicken from brine and rinse well, then pat dry. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. 
In a cast iron pan over medium high heat add the butter. Once the butter has melted add onions and cook until soft, about 5 minutes. Add the apples, thyme, and lemon. Stir together and cook about 2 minutes, then place all ingredients in a casserole dish. Return the pan to heat and the vegetable oil. Sprinkle chicken drumsticks with salt and pepper then brown each side, 1-2 minutes per side. Remove from pan and place in casserole dish with the apple onion mixture. Place dish in the oven and cook for 20-30 minutes, or until a thermometer registers 160 degrees.

Tarragon Mashed Potatoes

I served the roasted chicken with these mashed potatoes. I've made them plenty of times in one form or another, but this is the first time I've actually written down a recipe for it. I make mashed potatoes without measuring (adding ingredients to taste) and I encourage you to do the same, but this recipe should serve as a good guide. If you've got other herbs around to use besides tarragon then use them.

• 2 Russet Potatoes, peeled and cut into 1” pieces
• 2 Tbsp Sour Cream
• 1/4 cup Butter, salted
• 1/4 cup Whole Milk
• 1/4 cup Fresh Tarragon, chopped
• Salt and Pepper to taste

Simmer potatoes in heavily salter water until they yield easily to a fork. Drain well and return potatoes to the pot, add remaining ingredients and mash together until smooth.