On the Flipside

This Christmas my boss gifted me a book called "Fix the Pumps" by Darcy O'Neal. Our job involves a lot of cocktail making and as such we all enjoy learning about their history, but this book isn't about classic cocktails. Instead, it covers another famous tipple that is now all but forgotten: the classic fountain soda. As I read I was surprised to find out how little I knew about these once popular concoctions: the techniques used by soda jerks mirror those used by classic bartenders, many of the ingredients are no longer readily assessable, and a few of them would startle you if you found them in your carbonated beverage today. Example: a whole egg. Long ago it was not uncommon for a jerk to, at your request, shake up a soda incorporating this famous breakfast protein. The result is far from what you would think; soft and smooth in texture with a stable "head" of foam from the whites resting on top. 

The technique is also common to a category of alcoholic drinks known as "Flips". The term flip was first used in the late 17^th century to describe a mixture of beer, rum, and sugar, heated with a red-hot iron. Over time, the proportion of eggs and sugar increased, the beer was gradually left out, and the drink ceased to be served hot. The end result was a simple mixture of alcohol, sugar, water, and whole egg, shaken until chilled and frothed, and usually finished with a little grated nutmeg.

So when I heard about "Mixology Mondays" on this blog and saw that the flip was their theme for this month I couldn't help but join in the fun. Here's a little explanation of this "monthly online cocktail party" from their site:

"Mixology Monday is a monthly online cocktail party. Since launching in April 2006, Mixology Monday has attracted scores of participating bloggers and thousands of curious readers, all coming together on a monthly basis to share drink recipes and related information in a friendly online environment.

The process is quite simple: each month, a host, working with the moderator, selects a theme for the upcoming event; past themes have included Rum, Winter Warmers, Fizz, and Aperitifs. The event is announced on various blogs... and on or before the event date (a Monday — hence the name), participating bloggers join the party by posting a drink recipe or other post related to the theme."

I already had eggs on the brain to begin with... now it was time to put them in a glass.

Sunrise Flip

You can make a decent non-alcoholic drink by omitting the tequila at the beginning and adding 1 1/2 oz soda water after the drink is shaken, before transferring it to your serving glass.

• 1 1/2 oz silver tequila
• 1/2 oz clove-infused simple syrup (recipe follows)
• 1/2 oz orange juice
• 1/2 oz lime juice
• 1/4 oz pomegranate juice
• 1 whole egg

Combine all ingredients in a cocktail shaker and fill about halfway with ice (it's important to use less ice than you might normally to mix this drink, as the water that melts off makes it harder for the egg to froth properly). Shake hard for a good 30 seconds (again, we're trying to make the egg extra frothy). Strain into the glass of your choice, slowly lifting away from the glass as you pour to make a nice, thick head. Top with freshly grated nutmeg.

Clove-Infused Simple Syrup

• 1/2 cup granulated sugar
• 1/2 cup water
• 25-30 whole cloves

Combine all ingredients in a small pan over high heat and bring to a boil. whisk to dissolve the sugar and remove from heat. Let steep for an hour and cool before using.

This month's host of "Mixology Monday" has been the Cocktail Assembly.

Stumpo Sauce

I’m back to the grindstone after a great Christmas break spent with my parents and siblings, my nephew and nieces, and my bro-in-law. I think we all know the holidays aren’t about the gifts or the parties or the excuse to start drinking first thing in the morning; they’re about family and friends, inviting into your home those folks you might not try so hard to see any other time of year, and posting things like “Merry Christmas!” or “Happy New Year!” on the Facebooks of people you’ve probably never spoken to in person. I’m sure we've all found a few messages like this in our notifications or mailboxes (electronic or otherwise) over the course of the last month or two.

This recipe came about from a Facebook message I received written by an old family friend that I have still yet to meet, Phil Stumpo. In fact, up until last month I knew him only by his music and his marinara. My family has been making what we always called “Stumpo Sauce” for as long as I can remember. When I asked my parents for the recipe they provided it from memory. Once upon a time I think it was hand written on a scrap of paper, which now is surely tucked into one of our family's old recipe binders somewhere never to be found again; sacrificed to the recipe gods.

Growing up my family loved to be creative in the kitchen, especially when it came to dinner; we didn't often make the same thing twice unless it was really worth it. There are only a couple handfuls of recipes that stick out in my head from my childhood, so when I got this particular “Merry Christmas” in my mailbox followed by “…have been enjoying your blog” I jumped at the opportunity to ask if I could post the recipe here. I sent what my parents had given me to Phil for fact checking and updating, and what he returned to me is what you see below. It’s a deliciously hearty marinara sauce that goes especially well with your favorite tortellini. I’ve left the recipe essentially in its original form, and added my notes below.

“Stumpo Sauce”

• 1 pound Italian sausage links sliced 1-2 inch thick
• 1 pound leanest ground hamburger
• 2 chicken thighs with skin
• 3 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil
• 1 small white onion, chopped
• 1 celery stalk, diced
• 1 small carrot, peeled and diced
• 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
• 6 large whole garlic cloves, peeled
• 2 pounds mushrooms, thick sliced
• 1 cup Italian parsley
• 1tsp dried Oregano
• 6-8 fresh basil leaves, coarsely chopped
• 1/2 tsp red pepper flakes
• 1Tbsp ground black pepper
• 2 cans tomato sauce, 28 oz
• 1 can diced tomatoes, 28 oz
• 2 cups red wine
• 10 oz chicken stock
• salt to taste

In large preheated sauté pan, add 2 Tbsp oil and sear both thighs skin side down for 4-5 minutes or until skin is dark brown...turn over for another 4-5 minutes, remove and reserve. To remaining oil and drippings add another Tbsp of oil and sauté 6 garlic cloves on all sides until golden brown, being careful not to burn. Remove cloves and reserve. 

Into the pan add diced garlic, carrot, onion, parsley, and celery. Stir until softened then sprinkle with dried oregano, salt, and red and black peppers. Stir together, add sliced sausage and cook until brown, then add crumbled ground beef and stir until it's almost fully cooked. While ground beef is still a bit pink add sliced mushrooms and wine and bring to boil, then reduce heat and let simmer for 10 minutes. 

When liquid has reduced by 1/3, add sauce, tomatoes, and half of the stock, stir and let simmer for 10 minutes. Drop in seared chicken thighs and continue to simmer for 30-40 minutes on low heat, adding stock a little at a time as sauce reduces. At this point, taste sauce for salt and adjust if necessary, then take the six cloves of sautéed garlic you have reserved and smash them into a paste. Incorporate this into the sauce and then add chopped basil and simmer gently until the chicken thighs start to fall apart...that's when you know it's done. (FYI, thighs only there for flavor, or for the chef's enjoyment...not to be served).

Notes:

• The chicken thighs add a much richer flavor to this sauce then the chicken stock ever could by itself thanks in part to the browned bits that stick to the pan when seared, however since you wont be serving them they could be omitted if desired. (If i remember correctly my parents would use pork chops instead of chicken, and at the end cut them up and stir them back into the sauce. Such is the nature of hand-me-down recipes: evolving as they're passed along.)
• The step of sauteing whole garlic cloves, reserving them to incorporate at the end, then sauteing more minced garlic to leave in the sauce during cooking may seem unnecessary, but it is certainly not. The minced stuff you leave in lends a subtle background note, while the smashed cloves stirred in at the end give you a brighter "roasted garlic" kind of flavor. Both are important to the sauce.
• As a rule, never cook with a wine you wouldn't drink, especially when your adding a full two cups to the dish. Its flavor will have a big effect on your finished product. I have found that both Yellow Tail and Barefoot are good brands for these situations. They're easy to drink and wont break the bank.
• Don't try to hurry the sauce along during the reducing and simmering process; it needs to cook low and slow to reach its maximum potential. Stir occasionally during this time to make sure nothing is burning at the bottom of your pan.