Coming Up Daisies

My lady and I recently returned from a short trip south of the border, where we spent the week in Puerto Penasco, Sonora. As luck would have it, the American spring breaks had all ended the week prior, and the Mexican spring break had finished up literally the day before we got there. We only saw two other families in our hotel the entire time, and most of the cantinas and tiendas were equally empty. Needless to say the bartenders and shopkeepers were very happy to see us. We would walk down the street and be hollered at and waved down with menus. Boat crews would offer us great deals on fishing charters or sunset cruises. We were popular with the locals, is what I'm trying to say. But we knew better. We hadn't come there to spend money; we were on a budget. 

We specifically picked a hotel with a full kitchen, just to avoid restaurant and bar markups (which, admittedly, were much lower there than here in the states). We walked right past them all and made a bee line for the fish market. Here we were equally popular, as everyone we passed claimed to have the best camarones or the freshest pescado. We picked up some of both (shrimp and fish) as well as some scallops from a vendor who, while he spoke perfect English, I tried my best to practice my Spanish on. These were to be our meals for the week. 

The next day that fish became our lunch: ceviche
 of flounder, margaritas made with fresh citrus, corn tortillas straight from the tortilleria, and a view of the water. The ceviche was good, and the tortillas were great, but the Margaritas were perfect. It's funny how a Margarita made from scratch at home can be both better and cheaper than it's restaurant-purchased counterpart.

The Margarita

I think its fair to say that we are all familiar with the Margarita. At the very least, most people have imbibed a neon colored tequila drink at some shoddy Mexican restaurant once in their lives. Its history, however, is much more interesting than the drink most people get served. It's hardly traditional to the Mexican culture. In fact, if it weren't for American prohibition, this drink would never have come to be. 

In the late 1800s a cocktail came into vogue known as the Daisy. It was a simple variation on the sour: alcohol, sugar, lemon juice, and orange liqueur. A couple of decades later, after the passing of the 18th amendment, Mexico became the popular place for an American to (legally) get a drink. Wealthy Americans would commonly travel to Mexican resorts to relax and wet their whistle, doing their best to order cocktails they were familiar with at these Mexican restaurants and bars. A little after repeal journalists and other travelers started talking about the "Tequila Daisy" they'd been tippling south of the border. Imagine, if you will, an American customer trying to explain to a Mexican bartender how to make a drink like the Daisy. Of course they'd be starting with tequila, and limes were much more common than lemons in Mexico. (In fact, in Mexico there is no word for lemon, they are simply referred to as a yellow lime, or limon amarillo.) Hmmm... tequila, sugar, lime, orange liqueur... Sounds familiar, right? The icing on the cake: you'll never guess the Spanish translation for "Daisy". That's right, Margarita.

This is the basic recipe I usually start all my Margaritas with. The nice thing about it is that you can use these ratios to make a pitcher for a crowd, or just a few for you and someone special, and it can be easily adjusted to suit individual tastes. I usually try to use only lime juice, but I've made margaritas with various combinations of lemon, lime, even grapefruit with good results. Sometimes I'll include an orange in my citrus juice and omit the orange liqueur entirely for a drink that's fresher and less cloying. (This can be especially handy if you're traveling and don't want to buy a whole bottle of orange liqueur, as was our case, or if you just happen to be all out at home.) You can also use agave nectar in place of the sugar in your simple syrup for a flavor that meshes better with the tequila. Finally, if you have any fresh fruit on hand feel free to muddle it into the rest of the ingredients. I've had good luck with strawberries, blueberries, cantaloupe, honeydew, watermelon, tangerine, mango, &c. Other flavorings like cilantro or even a little hot sauce can be added too, based on people's preferences.

1 part simple syrup (1:1 water and sugar,  boiled to dissolve then cooled)

1 part citrus juice

2 parts tequila (I find most people prefer either blanco or reposado)

.25 parts orange liqueur

In the Rye

Lately it seems like there's no time for posting to my own blog, but I still manage to find a little time to write for others... come read my guest blog about the release of the new Bulleit Rye Whiskey on "Dishing".

An Old Fashioned Cocktail

The Old Fashioned is one of my favorite drinks; perhaps due as much to its history as its palatability. This was the first mixed drink to earn the title of "cocktail" and for years it was known simply by this name. It wasn't until bartenders really started mixing together all different sorts of concoctions that customers had to specify their drink request as "an old fashioned cocktail". Now, after 200-some years of mixological advancements most people have forgotten all about this dinosaur of a drink. Don't get me wrong, I love seeing all the different tipples that a good bartender can create these days, it's just that sometimes all a body needs is something simple, balanced, well chilled.

A classic recipe might go something like this:

• 1 sugar cube (or 1 heaping teaspoon granulated sugar)
• 2 dashes Angostura bitters
• 1 1/2 oz Rye Whiskey
• water as desired
• Lemon twist

Muddle sugar, bitters, and whiskey in an old fashioned glass to dissolve sugar. Add a little water, fill glass with ice, and stir well. Garnish with lemon twist.

Notes:

• I like to use simple syrup (1:1 water and sugar, boiled to dissolve then cooled) instead of sugar when I can. While probably not historically accurate it saves the step of muddling the sugar and makes for a smoother, thicker texture.  in this case sub 1/4-1/2 oz simple syrup for the sugar, and omit the water if desired.

• The real point of this drink is the bitters. Originally these tinctures of barks and roots were consumed for their medicinal value and were too unpalatable to be drank on their own. For a little variation it can be fun to pick up a few different kinds of bitters (Fee Brothers has a line of flavors like cherry, lemon, orange, rhubarb etc.) and try them in place of the traditional angostura. You'll be surprised how noticeable the differences can be.

• The first old fashioneds were probably most commonly made with made with rye, since that's what grew in the in the northern, more densely populated states. That said they're also delicious with bourbon, but they'll be sweeter and less spicy/fragrant. I like Wild Turkey (they make a rye and a bourbon) but if your guests are brown booze greenhorns then you might want something milder like Maker's Mark. Old Overholt rye is delicious as well and usually only $16-$18 a bottle.

• Some people debate over whether it's correct to use soda, still water, or none at all; soda wasn't easily available when the drink became popular, and since the drink was commonly imbibed in the morning for its medicinal value I would guess it was usually diluted with a little water. I prefer it with soda, but its really a matter of personal taste. 

• Don't bother with a bright red, near-flavorless "maraschino" cherry. The the original maraschino cherry (a marasca cherry preserved in its own liqueur) didn't become commonplace in the U.S. until the late 1800s, and it bore little resemblance to the artificially colored and sweetened Queen Anne cherries you'll find masquerading as maraschinos today.  Fresh or dried cherries soaked in brandy are a great do-it-yourself alternative. Adding the citrus of your choice is fine, but again, citrus was not as widely available in the early 1800s as it is today.

If you want to see a great modern adaptation of this classic drink then check out this video from "Raising the Bar" by Jamie Boudreau on Small Screen Network.




If you want to know more about the history of the mixed drink check out "Imbibe!" by David Wondrich, a comprehensive look at how our favorite libations came to be.

Just for fun I've copied the first known printing of the "cock tail" and its ingredients below:

The Balance and Columbian Repository

Communication.

To the Editor of the Balance. Sir, 
   I observe in your paper of the 6th instant, in the account of a democratic candidate for a seat in the legislature, marked under the head of Loss, 25 do. cock-tail. Will you be so obliging as to inform me what is meant by this species of refreshment? Though a stranger to you, I believe, from your general character, you will not suppose this request to be impertinent.
    I have heard of a forum, of phlegm-cutter and fog driver, of wetting the whistle, of moistening the clay, of a fillip, a spur in the head, quenching a spark in the throat, of flip & c, but never in my life, though have lived a good many years, did I hear of cock tail before. Is it peculiar to a part of this country? Or is it a late invention? Is the name expressive of the effect which the drink has on a particular part of the body? Or does it signify that the democrats who take the potion are turned topsycurvy, and have their heads where their tails should be? I should think the latter to be the real solution; but am unwilling to determine finally until I receive all the information in my power.
    At the beginning of the revolution, a physician publicly recommended the moss which grew on a tree as a substitute for tea. He found on experiment, that it had more of a stimulating quality then he approved; and therefore, he afterward as publicly denounced it. Whatever cock tail is, it may be properly administered only at certain times and to certain constitutions. A few years ago, when the democrats were bawling for Jefferson and Clinton, one of the polls was held in the city of New York at a place where ice cream was sold. Their temperament then was remarkably adust and bilious. Something was necessary to cool them. Now when they are sunk into rigidity, it might be equally necessary, by cock-tail to warm and rouse them.
    I hope you will construe nothing that I have said as disrespectful. I read your paper with great pleasure and wish it the most extensive circulation. Whether you answer my inquiry or not, I shall still remain,
    Yours,
        A SUBSCRIBER    

 [As I make it a point, never to publish anything (under my editorial head) but which I can explain, I shall not hesitate to gratify the curiosity of my inquisitive correspondent: Cock tail, then is a stimulating liquor, composed of spirits of any kind, sugar, water and bitters it is vulgarly called a bittered sling, and is supposed to be an excellent electioneering potion inasmuch as it renders the heart stout and bold, at the same time that it fuddles the head. It is said also, to be of great use to a democratic candidate: because, a person having swallowed a glass of it, is ready to swallow any thing else.

On the Flipside

This Christmas my boss gifted me a book called "Fix the Pumps" by Darcy O'Neal. Our job involves a lot of cocktail making and as such we all enjoy learning about their history, but this book isn't about classic cocktails. Instead, it covers another famous tipple that is now all but forgotten: the classic fountain soda. As I read I was surprised to find out how little I knew about these once popular concoctions: the techniques used by soda jerks mirror those used by classic bartenders, many of the ingredients are no longer readily assessable, and a few of them would startle you if you found them in your carbonated beverage today. Example: a whole egg. Long ago it was not uncommon for a jerk to, at your request, shake up a soda incorporating this famous breakfast protein. The result is far from what you would think; soft and smooth in texture with a stable "head" of foam from the whites resting on top. 

The technique is also common to a category of alcoholic drinks known as "Flips". The term flip was first used in the late 17^th century to describe a mixture of beer, rum, and sugar, heated with a red-hot iron. Over time, the proportion of eggs and sugar increased, the beer was gradually left out, and the drink ceased to be served hot. The end result was a simple mixture of alcohol, sugar, water, and whole egg, shaken until chilled and frothed, and usually finished with a little grated nutmeg.

So when I heard about "Mixology Mondays" on this blog and saw that the flip was their theme for this month I couldn't help but join in the fun. Here's a little explanation of this "monthly online cocktail party" from their site:

"Mixology Monday is a monthly online cocktail party. Since launching in April 2006, Mixology Monday has attracted scores of participating bloggers and thousands of curious readers, all coming together on a monthly basis to share drink recipes and related information in a friendly online environment.

The process is quite simple: each month, a host, working with the moderator, selects a theme for the upcoming event; past themes have included Rum, Winter Warmers, Fizz, and Aperitifs. The event is announced on various blogs... and on or before the event date (a Monday — hence the name), participating bloggers join the party by posting a drink recipe or other post related to the theme."

I already had eggs on the brain to begin with... now it was time to put them in a glass.

Sunrise Flip

You can make a decent non-alcoholic drink by omitting the tequila at the beginning and adding 1 1/2 oz soda water after the drink is shaken, before transferring it to your serving glass.

• 1 1/2 oz silver tequila
• 1/2 oz clove-infused simple syrup (recipe follows)
• 1/2 oz orange juice
• 1/2 oz lime juice
• 1/4 oz pomegranate juice
• 1 whole egg

Combine all ingredients in a cocktail shaker and fill about halfway with ice (it's important to use less ice than you might normally to mix this drink, as the water that melts off makes it harder for the egg to froth properly). Shake hard for a good 30 seconds (again, we're trying to make the egg extra frothy). Strain into the glass of your choice, slowly lifting away from the glass as you pour to make a nice, thick head. Top with freshly grated nutmeg.

Clove-Infused Simple Syrup

• 1/2 cup granulated sugar
• 1/2 cup water
• 25-30 whole cloves

Combine all ingredients in a small pan over high heat and bring to a boil. whisk to dissolve the sugar and remove from heat. Let steep for an hour and cool before using.

This month's host of "Mixology Monday" has been the Cocktail Assembly.

Rhum Agricole

Last night my friends and I had the great pleasure of attending a special dinner to showcase Rhum Clement and Rhum J.M. Both are brands of rhum agricole, a type of rum distilled from freshly-squeezed sugar cane juice rather than from molasses like most rums. Only recently have these brands jumped through all the necessary hoops to find their way onto the shelves of Washington liquor stores, and on this night we were lucky enough to have them shaken up for us by some of Seattle's top mixologists then paired with five incredible courses made by the chefs at Spur Gastropub.

Pairing cocktails with food works surprisingly well. As with wines, cocktails can span every flavor profile from sweet to acidic, from earthy to mineral, from smoky to herbaceous to floral. The key difference between the two is that, when making a cocktail, a bartender has the opportunity to take a variety of different flavors and mix them together at different ratios on the spot. While I won't argue that nothing is more awe-inspiring than a flawless wine and food pairing, there is something impressive about a mixologist who's skilled and knowledgeable enough to blend the perfect libation to go with an already perfect dish. This was my experience last night:

First

Tuna Tartare

wrapped in avocado with chili and lime "chips".

Saint Pierre

Clément Primier Canne, ginger, champagne vinegar, lime bitters.

by Cale Green

Throughout the dinner we were brought our cocktails first, followed by the food. This course was my favorite pairing because, at first sip, this cocktail came across as a little too sharp and acidic. Once I was able to try it with the food, however, I found it to be balanced as the ginger and vinegar elements in the cocktail helped to cut through the rich flavors of avocado and raw tuna.

Second

Sous Vide Pork Belly

with cabbage, pineapple, and creole mustard.

Carley’s Conundrum

Rhum J.M Gold, lemon, orgeat, demerara, boker’s bitters.

by Nathan Webber

Both of these would be just as good on their own as they were together. The complex and sweet flavors of the orgeat (an almond and infused syrup flavored with rose or orange flower water) and the demerara (a golden raw sugar) in the cocktail mirrored those of the soft pork belly and cooked pineapple on our plates.

Third

Smoked King Crab

on braised greens with butternut squash soup and pecans.

Calypso King

Brown Butter infused Rhum J.M Silver, falernum.

by Craig Schoen

As the bartender was describing his cocktail to us he proposed something I’d never heard of before: we were to dip or smoked king crab into the cocktail. Equally fun and delicious, the browned butter flavors infused into the rhum paired expectedly well with the crab, and the bite of alcohol in the finish served to cleanse the palate. 

Fourth

Beef Cheeks

with raw, braised, and pureed carrots, curry demi-glace, and horseradish foam.

Chimenea

Clement VSOP, rye, cynar, punt e mes, hickory syrup, orange bitters.

by Marley Tomic-Beard

This cocktail seemed to get mixed reviews from those sitting around me, but all agreed that it was much better with the food than on its own. The strong notes of hickory smoke and cynar (a bitter apéritif flavored with artichoke) were too much to handle alone, but the beef cheek sauced with curry demi-glace did much to help these potent flavors find there place.

Fifth

Rhum Walnut Sponge Cake

topped with a dehydrated banana-juice chip, paired with praline ice cream and banana panna cotta drizzled with caramel. 

Rhum Clément Cuvée Homère and Clément X. O.

For our final course we were given two blended barrel-aged rhums, served neat. The first, Cuvée Homère, was a marriage of the brand’s best rhums over the last fifteen years: 2001, 1999, and 1997. The second was a rare blend of very old aged rhums including the highly regarded vintages of 1976, 1970, and 1952. It was a great opportunity for all to see the incredible range of character that rhum agricole can have. After all, wasn’t that the point of the entire meal?

The Strawberry Proxy

With the recent heavy rains in California and Mexico, as well as the January freeze in Florida, the strawberry crop has taken a hefty blow this year. Of course we'll still find strawberries in stores for Valentine's Day, but the quantity and quality that we'll see seems to be uncertain ("The Packer" Strawberry availability in question for Valentine's Day). This little predicament got me thinking... can you really enjoy that bubbly champagne on the big night without some juicy, delicious strawberries to back it up? Can you even make a special drink for this holiday without incorporating them? And so began the quest to devise a sweet cocktail with all the romance of a flawless ripe strawberry, yet made with more dependable ingredients. Well, two bottles of champagne and a bottle of rum later, I came up with the perfect proxy: my Vanilla-Ginger Royale. Both ginger and vanilla bean are available year round and rarely have the quality or consistency issues of fruits. Additionally both of these ingredients are aphrodisiacs, as is the alcohol, making for a very efficient libation.

Vanilla-Ginger Royale

• 1/2 oz Vanilla-Ginger Simple Syrup (recipe follows)
• 1 oz rum
• Rose Sparkling Wine

Combine rum and syrup in a tumbler and top with ice. Stir briskly, strain into a champagne flute and top with rose sparkling wine. 

For the rum I've used 10 Cane brand here, but I would also recommend Cruzan white rum; really anything thats light in color and doesn't say "Bacardi" on the front. As for the wine, Barefoot Cellars makes a sparkling rose cuvee with a slightly sweeter flavor that works perfectly. The drier brut champagnes I tried didn't fair as well with this cocktail. You may find it necessary to adjust the quantity of simple syrup base on the type of wine.

Vanilla-Ginger Simple Syrup

• 1 vanilla bean
• 1/4 cup fresh ginger, peeled and sliced
• 1 cup granulated sugar
• 1 cup water

Combine sugar, water and ginger in a saucepan over medium high heat, whisking occasionally. Cut the vanilla bean lengthwise, scraping the seeds from inside, and add both the seeds and pod to the saucepan. Once the mixture has come to a boil and the sugar has completely dissolved remove from heat and let steep for 15 minutes. Strain and cool.

The end result will still have a few specks of black from the vanilla, which I personally don't mind and actually find quite attractive dancing in my sparkling wine. If, however, you would prefer a cleaner appearance then use several layers of cheese cloth in addition to your strainer. This syrup should keep in a refigerator for up to a month.

Oh Boy!

Richard Oh, a California winemaker and self-proclaimed "all-around dude" has recently released his first distilled product: Ohzone. The liquor is best described by Richard himself, so here's an excerpt from his website: http://www.ohzonespirits.com/

"Made from first quality grapes via cold distillation, extraction and filtration, Ohzone is an entirely new category of spirit, so ask for it by name – it’s the only one of it’s kind. It’s not a vodka or gin or rum or tequila or brandy or moonshine or anything else out there…By itself, Ohzone tastes smooth and clean, with a hint of grape. And as the primary spirit in a never-ending, whirlwind tour of cocktails, infusions, culinary recipes – and in anything else the imagination may imagine – Ohzone transforms a spirit into the spiritual."

On my recent trip down to California I had the chance to give his new liquor a try at a small release party in Pacific Grove. He talks a big game, but the product surely speaks for itself. While Ohzone's mild nature will do just fine in familiar drinks like the cosmo or lemon drop, the sublte flavor lends itself much better to a more classic take on the cocktail that's becoming increasingly popular. I managed to get a bottle sent back up to Seattle for me to play around with. Give this one a try, if you're lucky enough to find a bottle of your own.

PomOhgranate Sour

• 2  oz. Ohzone
• 1 oz. homemade sour mix (recipe follows)
• 1/2 oz. pomegranate juice
• 1/2 oz. egg white

Fill shaker with ice and shake ingredients vigorously. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with a twist of lemon.

Homemade Sour Mix

Nothing ruins a good drink faster than a bad sour mix. There are several premade sour mixes on the market, but I have yet to find a national brand that does justice to a quality cocktail. This simple recipe is a much better option. It can be made in large batches and keeps in a refrigerator for at least two weeks. Don't bother with store bought juices here; just squeeze the fruits yourself. The end result will be well worth the extra effort.

• 1 part granulated sugar
• 1 part water
• 1 part fresh lemon juice
• 1 part fresh lime juice

Combine water and sugar in a pan over medium heat. Whisk constantly until water is simmering and sugar has disolved, doing your best not to let the mixture boil. Remove from heat and allow to cool in the refrigerator, then combine with fresh juices and store refrigerated in large bottles or jars.

Variations: If you don't care for (or for some reason can't find) pomegranate juice you can make the drink plain by omitting it and increasing the quantities of Ohzone and sour mix by 1/4 oz. Also, I've found that this cocktail works quite well with my homemade blackberry liqueur taking the place of the pomegranate juice. If you're really in a pinch you can use bottled sour mix instead of the homemade version, just don't tell anyone you got the recipe from me.

The Legendary Rum of St. Croix

Last night I attended an exclusive dinner put on by Cruzan Rum to kick off their new advertising pitch "The Legendary Rum of St. Croix." Of the 25 in attendance were some of the best and brightest in Seattle's bar scene. Needless to say I felt a little out of place, but that didn't stop me from enjoying six couses of tropical seafood dishes accompanied by seven delicious rum-based cocktails. The lighting was too dim for good photos, but hopefully seeing some of my favorites from the menu will serve to evoke a little jealousy.

Tandoori Coconut Prawns - Tandoori marinated, coconut crusted white prawns served with tropical fruit chutney and rum plum sauce.
Paired with Single Barrel Cider.

Crispy Pan Fried Hawaiian Snapper - Opakapaka marinated in light rum and pan seared served with quinoa cakes, citrus salad and rum infused passion fruit-coconut sauce.
Paired with a Hemingway Daquiri.

Rum Battered Fried Banana - Banana battered with rum-ginger ale tempura and fried. Served with rum caramel sauce and ginger bread ice cream.
Paired with Bananas Foster in a Glass. 

Of all the cocktails the one that stood out the most to me was the Single-Barrel Cider. The combination of ingredients would also work well if served hot, and the good people at Cruzan were kind enough to provide me the recipe.

Single Barrel Cider

1 1/2 oz. Cruzan Single Barrel

3/4 oz. Fresh Lemon Juice

1 oz. Simple Syrup

2 oz. Apple Cider (Fresh, cloudy kind)

Freshly grate Cinnamon on top.